Mexico City is experiencing a well-deserved renaissance in interest. For the past several years, travelers have dismissed Mexico's capital because of this grand city's problems with crime, pollution, and out-of-control growth. Now that these unsavory trends have been reversed, the culturally curious are rediscovering what originally led so many to this magnificent place. Along with city sophistication, you also find riots of color, a constant background of music, and an endearing mix of the majestically old with the irresistibly new.

Located 2,239m (7,347 ft.) high, on an enormous dry lakebed in a highland valley surrounded by mountains, this was the center of power of pre-Hispanic America, and it remains one of the most dynamic, fascinating, and charismatic cities in the world today.

Mexico City is the only place where you can find insight into this captivating country -- veiled in mysticism, infused with an appreciation of the moment, and proud of its heritage. Founded more than 675 years ago as the ancient city of Tenochtitlán and capital of the Aztec Empire, today it is has some 25 million inhabitants -- making it the most populated city on the globe.

You only need to stand in the center of the Plaza of Three Cultures to visually comprehend the undisputed significance of this city. Here, the remains of an Aztec pyramid, a colonial church, and a towering modern office building face one another, a testament to the city's prominence in ancient and contemporary history. Located at the heart of the Americas, Mexico City has been a center of life and commerce for more than 2,000 years. The Teotihuacán, Toltec, Aztec, and European conquistadors all contributed to the city's fascinating evolution, art, and heritage. Although residents refer to their city as simply México (meh-hee-koh), its multitude of ancient ruins, colonial masterpieces, and modern architecture has prompted others to call it "The City of Palaces."

The central downtown area resembles a European city, dominated by ornate buildings and broad boulevards, and interspersed with public art, parks, and gardens. This sprawling city is thoroughly modern and, in places, unsightly and chaotic, but it never strays far from its historical roots. In the center are the partially excavated ruins of the main Aztec temple; pyramids rise just beyond the city.

The sheer number of residents trying to exist here, combined with economic malaise, high unemployment, and government corruption, has created an environment where petty crime (principally robberies) is common. Several years ago, Mexico City's notoriety came from its rising crime rate, a trend that -- thankfully -- is in reverse. Over the past several years, the city has achieved admirable progress in making visitors feel more secure, with special safety programs, faster response to reports of crime, a vastly increased police presence, and programs that are effectively combating corruption -- including hiring Rudy Giuliani as an anti-corruption consultant. By 2002, Mexico City had reduced crime rates to 50% of 1994 levels, with only .02% related to visitors to the city.

You've undoubtedly heard about Mexico City's pollution. Major steps to improve the air quality (restricted driving, factory closings, emission-controlled buses and taxis) have worked wonders, but the problem persists. On some days you won't notice it; on other days it will make your nose run, your eyes water, and your throat rasp. If you have respiratory problems, be very careful; the city's elevation makes matters even worse. Minimize your exposure to the fumes by refraining from walking busy streets during rush hour. Sunday, when many factories are closed and many cars escape the city, should be your prime outdoor day. One positive note: In the evenings the air is usually deliciously cool and relatively clean.

Mexico City is a feast of urban energy, culture, dining, and shopping. The city has sidewalk cafes and cantinas; bazaars and boutiques; pyramids, monuments, and museums; and a multitude of entertainment options. And when you've had your fill of the city, memorable towns and historic national landmarks are only a couple of hours away in any direction.

We have visited Mexico City twice in the past few months and were pleasantly surprised. We stayed at both the historic centre of the city and the Zona Rosa area which was created as an area for tourists with upscale hotels and trendy restaurants. We both agree we much preferred the historic centre for its vibrancy and authenticity. 

If you are truly interested in the culture and history of Mexico, a visit to Mexico City is a must.  

Gran Hotel

Looking at the above photos, which are also enlarged elsewhere on the site, you can see why we were taken away by the old world charm of the Gran Hotel. The Gran Hotel is highly recommended in every major guide book and its elegance surpasses that of the renowned Canadian Fairmont hotels such as the Toronto Royal York and the Edmonton Hotel MacDonald. Unfortunately the old world charm and elegance do not extend beyond the luxurious lobby to the staff and rooms. The rooms are dated and stuffy, which one could excuse in itself, however the lack of care is evident in every turn. Opening the curtains resulted in a felled curtain rod on our heads. The shower proved to be even more exciting as a leak which appeared to have been repaired with chewing gum burst, sending a large spray of water sideways and onto the floor, soaking the entire bathroom, including all towels, fixtures and toilet tissue.  However, the real dissatisifier was the staff who were borderline disinterested in fixing any of these problems. Add to this the mediocre food with poor service at their restaurant, after which the waiter chased us up the elevator because he thought our tip was too low.  And, of course, the straw that broke the camel's back when upon checkout we were told our free buffet breakfast was only good for one person and that our bill would be 100 pesos more please!! 

Where we then moved to was the Cathedral Hotel which we would highly recommend. It is a block from the Cathedral (go figure!) and has a lovely roof top terrace with friendly caring staff.

On a later occasion, we  stayed at the Century Hotel, a four star in the Zona Rosa area, which was prearranged by a travel trade show we attended.  Although obviously a more upscale area catering to tourists, we can honestly say we would sacrifice the "safety net" of this area for the vibrancy and character of the Historic Centre.     

OAXACA (Click here to see more photos)

Oaxaca, with its unique blend of indigenous heritage and Spanish-colonial influence, is one of the world's most exciting art centers. Located at the southern tip of the Sierra Madre Mountains, the State of Oaxaca has one of Mexico's largest concentrations of indigenous communities; half of the population speak an indigenous dialect instead of or in addition to Spanish. The villages that surround the city of Oaxaca are the remnants of the Zapotec and Mixtec city-states that prevailed in the Valley of Oaxaca for four thousand years. The people of these villages have retained their language, culture and traditions, as well as the handicrafts of pottery making, hand looming and woodcarving that their ancestors developed centuries ago. Oaxaca's historic district and the pre-Columbian archeological site of Monte Alban have both been designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

This Spanish-built city of narrow streets has a special atmosphere - at once relaxed and energetic, remote and cosmopolitan. Situated in the rugged southern state of the same name, Oaxaca has a large indigenous population, flourishing markets and some superb colonial architecture. Not least of Oaxaca's attractions are the abundant local handicrafts and the conviviality of the local cafes. Center of town is the shady, arcaded zócalo and the major landmark is the Iglesia de Santo Domingo, the most splendid of Oaxaca's many churches. The city also has a clutch of worthy museums, exploring Oaxacan culture and the lives of famous former inhabitants such as Benito Juárez. There are many fascinating places within day-trip distance of the city, notably the Zapotec ruins at Monte Albán, Mitla, Yagul and Cuilapan.

The traditions and myths concerning the dead vary from region to region, however the belief underlying all ceremonies is that the dead (or their spirits) return to earth on this day to be with their families and loved ones.

In Oaxaca City, the mixing of Pre-Hispanic and Catholic cultural and religious traditions make for a colorful and magical occasion. Local markets burst with prepatory activities, bakers light the midnight oil to prepare loaves of the special "pan de muertos" (bread of the dead), and playful skeleton imagery dominates storefronts and artisan themes.

The festival formally begins on October 31st, many families pay honor to their ancestors or deceased loved-ones with the careful and sometimes elaborate construction of an in-house altar. The offerings consist of flowers, food and drinks, candles, photos of the deceased, and incense such as copal. While the occasion is at times solemn, it is also tinged with joyful anticipation and even humor.

The festivities on the 31st also extend to the cemeteries, where the experience takes on the emotional charge and splendor of a universal tradition: The Cult of the Dead. A pilgrimage is made to the loved-ones' gravesides, carrying flowers and candles as adornments. What begins as a prayerful or meditative religious occasion quickly transforms into a fiesta, complete with musicians and dancing, paper-maché puppets or "gigantes," and fireworks, sometimes lasting through the night and into the first and second days of November.

Camino Real 

Today, one of Oaxaca’s Colonial jewels, the former “Santa Catalina Convent”, has become the Camino Real hotel, a place imbued by ancient tradition and modern details.

The building was built during different periods, since the community passed through several development stages during which they searched for ways to better adapt themselves to the requirements of society. The “Las Catalinas Complex” included several elements that joined it to its surroundings, such as the “Temple”, where celebrations were held in the mid- 17th century, as well as the “Lavaderos”, which was a complex open to the public located in the patio that forms the Northeast corner of the Convent. Those washbasins, built with stone within a small octagonal building and covered by a dome are one of the most ingenious hydraulic systems of the Viceroyship era. The running water reaches the central fountain and then the different basins, with a pressure achieved by the different elevations from one of the tanks. Very probably, this service to the city started also in the 17th century.

The “Lavaderos” are built with stone inside a small octagonal building, covered by a dome that rests on pillars. It is a true delight to see it.

The former “Santa Catalina Convent” is an authentic architectural jewel of the 16th century. The cloisters and corridors are imbued with an atmosphere of tranquility.
The gardens, with various bushes and flowers, provide a touch of color and beauty. High walls, frescoes, fountains, porches, and flowery gardens create an evocative atmosphere.

Former guests of the Camino Real include the King and Queen of Spain and two of our own Royal Travellers, Norm and Connie. 

TAXCO (Click here to see more photos)

Eventually the silver mines became nearly exhausted - only one small mine remains in operation today. In 1929, American architect William Spratling arrived in Taxco intending to write a book. Taking notice of the local silver artisans, Spratling opened up a workshop and exported the goods back to the United States. The workshop grew and added apprentices, which eventually gave new life to the silver craftsmanship, and to the city. Thanks to Spratling Taxco is the world's capital of silver, with over 200 shops and dozens of renowned silver jewelers.

Shoppers from all over Mexico and tourists alike, come here to see the greatest quantity and variety of silver objects, knowing the best bargains are found here. Many travelers make Taxco an overnight trip, but with so much to see and do in such a compact area, it's well worth at least a two night stay. Getting around town is done on foot along the narrow but safe streets (pace yourself up the steeper sections), plentiful taxis, or in the very inexpensive, open door VW buses called burritos that that locals use.

Taxco is often visited as a day tour from either Acapulco or Mexico City (it is approximately half way between the two cities) but to fully appreciate it, one should plan to spend at least two days. In hindsight, we wish had stayed longer than the day and a half we did. 

PUEBLA (Click here to see more photos)

At an elevation of over 2121m (7,000 ft.) in a broad plane between mountain ranges and snow-capped volcanoes, Puebla is blessed with the year-round spring-like climate of the highlands. It's considered the cradle of Mexican cuisine, having produced some of the country's classic dishes -- the intricate mole poblano and chiles en nogada, as well as tinga (pork or chicken stewed in chiles) and mixiotes (spiced rabbit, lamb, or chicken wrapped and steamed in a sauce).

Puebla has a larger colonial center than any other city in Mexico. It's home to so many mansions, convents, and churches that it has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is colonial architecture of grand proportions, different from that of the rest of Mexico in its heavy use of painted tiles, gold leaf, and molded plaster. Facades and walls are commonly surfaced with clay and Talavera tiles. Early in the city's history, artisans from the Spanish town of Talavera settled here and established their craft of making hand-painted tiles -- a tradition the Moors originally brought to Spain in the 8th century. These tiles, along with dishes, pots, and other objects made in the same tradition, are referred to as Talavera.

Puebla is a very Catholic city, even for Mexico; there are so many churches and former convents that most Poblanos can't keep them all straight. Churches not to be missed include the Cathedral, one of the largest in Mexico, and the Capilla del Rosario, with its overpowering baroque design and lavish use of gold leaf. Modern Puebla surrounds the historic district. The principal industry of the city is a large Volkswagen plant on the outskirts. It produces most of the Volkswagens sold in the United States.